Has anyone ever setup a jig for setting the jewels in a particular pallet fork in order to make the job easier?
Finding NOS Citizen 8110A forks is getting near impossible. I have just purchased the last of Jules Borel stock of 035-39 PALLET FORK AND ARBOR and I have not been able to find any more NOS (or used) forks. I do have a few 035-39’s in various states of disrepair, mainly needing re-jeweled but getting the jewels set right is a pain in the a**.
Just wondering if anyone’s set up a fork jig, locking the fork in place, with a stop for the jewels so they are the same length and right position every time without the trouble of putting them in and out of the watch to check before heating and resin?
I have tried doing that also but when putting the .....Jewel On .... I made a little Jig that I ground down that looks like a ...Half Tuning Fork Bar that I place on the ... Jewel to make sure it .... >> Sits Level when pressed down.
Looks like as I said .... >> Tuning Fork Ground Down on one side so when it is placed ... >>On The Jewel it is not ..... Lop Sided on the Holder. It was just a Straight Bar Stock but ... >> Notched at One End with the Dremel to fit . Example : Grind out ..... >> Half Of a Little Bar Stock I had so it fits ...... The Balance Notch good while on The Metal Plate Base ..... >> [---______________], and ..... Pressing The Jewel Solid and Level. I also made a Bar that is held on the Plate Like that is mounted to the plate holes to ..... >>Hold the Pallet so it does not Bend when ... The Jewel is being ..... Pressed Onto It.
I do not or will not ... Use the Screw Driver to press the Jewel on, but I made a ...... tool that has... Slanted Cut that fit the Jewel to hold it firm and then press it on. A Small Bar with a Slanted Cut to hold the Jewel in place then press it on against the Metal Block holding the Pallet ...... >> [__l\_] . ( Flip the Tool over to place .... The Other Jewels on. )
( The Made Tool looks Like This .... Chunk Of Square Little Block Of Metal with two .... Drilled Holes and ..... Two Pins pressed in it to drop into the Holes on the Plate then it can be removed if wanted. I just left it in there with a solid fit. ( It works as a ...Good Back and holds it firm. ) I made a ... Jig Set up like yours but every thing is mounted as ... One Device and sits on the Desk or Shelf if needed. I always like to be sure .... >> The Jewel Was Level and intact before I melted the ... >> Shellac Chip Solid. My Motto is : When I do things .... " Do them Good the First Time so they work good, or Do a Good Job from the First Try, ....... Then really try to be better doing things. ___________________________ At I first had some fun doing the .....>> Shellac Chips when I learned it was done like that then as I went on with a couple of them I got better with it. My first mistake with starting to do repairs of these was I put them into .... >> The Cleaner and did not realize it dissolved .... >> The Shellac. You know when you first start you mess up quite a bit in things... , but eventually one learns a lot but on some doings it gets costly too. When you clean every thing then notice where is ....>> That Jewel that goes on there you do things better the next time. Then I found out that there was a .....>> Tool to do this so I ..... >> Made One For me to use but it is mounted to a ... >> Metal Clamp Down Jig ... I made on my desk. I also found a ...>> Burner like you have there and it works good too. Still use it yet and it works good for what I do. ( I love the Challenges I come across doing all this. ) ( Just a little explaining what I learned and do for this.)
Last Edit: May 7, 2019 18:08:01 GMT -8 by longbike
Thank you, Louis, for the detailed outline of your method. It helps to know learn from what others have done before me.
Based on your method description, you have certainty put some thought and effort into this.
My primary focus is aimed at setting the jewel the right deep in the fork before shellac. Not deep enough, and the escape wheel teeth will not pass the jewel, too deep (in the fork) and the e-wheel will free-wheel.
As I see it, the relative measurement is from pivot to the (out-facing) edge of jewel(s). My thought for achieving this was the following
• use a plastic base, drill a hole to fit pivot shaft, just over .28mm (firm fit .29-30mm)
• Using a NOS pallet to position then glue to the base (3) three stops. One for top edge of each jewel(s), a stop on ether side of fork to lock in fork position. All the stops are glued to the base (fixed).
By doing the above I can lock in the fork, insert each jewel (set at right length). With everything set same as NOS, carefully lift the fork out of the jig, moving it to a heating plate for shellac.
For the base I will use ether 1/8" white Acrylic Plexiglass or Canvas Phenolic (which I have an abundance). Care has to be made with the jewel stops making them short in height, so that when lifting the pallet fork out it comes out & free without moving jewel.
Well again I thank all for your input.
Below is a (very) rough example of what I am thinking.
Just a quick update so that no one thinks I just dropped this.
I have two Citizen 8110A movements in the trays, both needing pallet forks re-jeweled. I have ordered up the micro drill bits and other bits I need for this jig.
In the meantime, I have moved the above to the side, picking up a Seiko 6138B in the tray, preparing to strip, clean and rebuilding the cal. as it's part of a 6138-0040 Bullhead restoration I have going.
Always something waiting in line, and never enough time 😊
BTW @rogart63 did recommend this tool “Bergeon 2281” over in WRT. It’s a beauty and just what I need. Hope to find a reasonable priced used one.