Adrian-VTA
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Adelaide, South Australia
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Post by Adrian-VTA on Oct 1, 2015 19:48:16 GMT -8
Geday, I've got a few of these as samples and thinking about selling them. The assembly is 1.28mm diameter, so you need to drill your old click ball hole to 1.3mm. So they are a bit larger than the stock 6309 etc one, but a bigger ball is better I think. In theory it should be less wear. Sale price would be $29AU How would people go with that? Besides that, they come as an assembly and just press in.  |
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28A
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Post by 28A on Oct 1, 2015 20:53:42 GMT -8
If you you know.. need another guinea pig on these.. i'd be pretty interested  I have a 6309 slim case that has no click ball at all, i've swapped my 7546 movement and 7548 bezel and dial back into the orange one's left over case but i'd really rather use the over polished 6309 case as that's the one i want to have machined into a TST one day. So this little kit might be just the thing i need! Edit: Just another thing, how is it that just days after i was researching how to replace the click ball and spring.. you show up with this? What a coincidence! |
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tritto
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Post by tritto on Oct 1, 2015 21:51:01 GMT -8
A ready to go kit would be much more feasible than trying to close over a hole after you've put in a new click ball for those of us with limited skills/tools.
Given that a replacement case for a 7040 is pretty hard to come by, I think I would buy one at that price.
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28A
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Ruining original Seikos since 2015.
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Post by 28A on Oct 1, 2015 21:57:02 GMT -8
How easy / hard is it to come by 1.3mm drill bits? I realize you could use a dremel to drill it since the average person probably doesn't have some miniature watchmaking drill press (although that does sound handy.. maybe i'll hunt one one day) but if the drill bits are a pain to locate it might make me less inclined.
I haven't actually searched for them yet so i don't know.
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cobrajet25
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Post by cobrajet25 on Oct 1, 2015 22:40:04 GMT -8
A ready to go kit would be much more feasible than trying to close over a hole after you've put in a new click ball for those of us with limited skills/tools. Given that a replacement case for a 7040 is pretty hard to come by, I think I would buy one at that price.  Great idea, but a drop-in swap would be much more feasible for the DIY-er. Otherwise, a ball from a medium Bic pen and a chopped-off springbar spring will do just fine! |
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tritto
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Post by tritto on Oct 1, 2015 22:42:53 GMT -8
I think the drop in package is what Adrian has produced cobrajet25. The ball is in a little sleeve. Drill the 1.3mm hole and drop the sleeve in. Is that right Adrian? |
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28A
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Post by 28A on Oct 1, 2015 23:44:07 GMT -8
With .01mm clearance either side of the tube i'd say it's pretty much going to be a tight press fit in. You'd just want to make sure the hole is drilled square otherwise it may not want to go in too well with that small a clearance. Best bet for installation would be to drill the hole with a small drill press and the case back off so the case sits flat.
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Post by C4L18R3 on Oct 1, 2015 23:45:23 GMT -8
...and sorry for the dumb question:
Does the original 6309-7040 have a 'spring' thing under the click ball or is it just the ball? I ask because mine jumped off the table... never to be seen...
Thanks! |
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Adrian-VTA
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Adelaide, South Australia
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Post by Adrian-VTA on Oct 1, 2015 23:46:46 GMT -8
Yeah that's it. It will probably need to be done with a small drill press. As for pressing the ball in, you'll need a staking set or a decent flat headed punch. I've just purchased a bag of 1.3mm drill bits. I think the drop in package is what Adrian has produced cobrajet25. The ball is in a little sleeve. Drill the 1.3mm hole and drop the sleeve in. Is that right Adrian? |
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28A
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Post by 28A on Oct 1, 2015 23:49:08 GMT -8
...and sorry for the dumb question:
Does the original 6309-7040 have a 'spring' thing under the click ball or is it just the ball? I ask because mine jumped off the table... never to be seen...
Thanks! There is a small spring! Not a dumb question. |
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28A
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Ruining original Seikos since 2015.
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Post by 28A on Oct 1, 2015 23:50:14 GMT -8
Yeah that's it. It will probably need to be done with a small drill press. As for pressing the ball in, you'll need a staking set or a decent flat headed punch. I've just purchased a bag of 1.3mm drill bits. I think the drop in package is what Adrian has produced cobrajet25. The ball is in a little sleeve. Drill the 1.3mm hole and drop the sleeve in. Is that right Adrian? I'm super interested in buying one of these to fix my case. Will you include a drill bit? Do you use a small mini / nano drill for this or can you buy an adapter to fit the 1.3mm drill into a regular size chuck? I wonder if our pedestal drill will take that small a bit.. I've never tried to be honest. |
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Rod
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Post by Rod on Oct 2, 2015 1:10:56 GMT -8
A ready to go kit would be much more feasible than trying to close over a hole after you've put in a new click ball for those of us with limited skills/tools. Given that a replacement case for a 7040 is pretty hard to come by, I think I would buy one at that price. Great idea, but a drop-in swap would be much more feasible for the DIY-er. Otherwise, a ball from a medium Bic pen and a chopped-off springbar spring will do just fine! Yep never failed for me, all mine that went missing are now Bic M's |
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Rod
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Post by Rod on Oct 2, 2015 1:11:49 GMT -8
Geday, I've got a few of these as samples and thinking about selling them. The assembly is 1.28mm diameter, so you need to drill your old click ball hole to 1.3mm. So they are a bit larger than the stock 6309 etc one, but a bigger ball is better I think. In theory it should be less wear. Sale price would be $29AU How would people go with that? Besides that, they come as an assembly and just press in. Now doesn't one of the Tuna's have just this exact setup but the correct diameter for the 6309's etc? |
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cobrajet25
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Post by cobrajet25 on Oct 2, 2015 1:15:22 GMT -8
I think the drop in package is what Adrian has produced cobrajet25. The ball is in a little sleeve. Drill the 1.3mm hole and drop the sleeve in. Is that right Adrian? Having to drill your case makes this part not exactly 'drop in'. Modification of the case should not be required. JMHO. Personally, the idea of reaming out the click ball hole of a nice 6309 case gives me the heebie-jeebies. |
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Post by SeikoPsycho on Oct 2, 2015 2:42:13 GMT -8
I'm also undergoing this exact project as we speak on a mod I'm working on. I used a bic pen ball and lightly staked it in place with a staking set but it seems to sit a wee bit low. I also have a nos seiko ball + spring to try in the second hole on this case. I procrastinated about using it on the first attempt because I only have 1 nos ball on hand.
A drop in replacement would be nice but drilling the case could create other issues. Those small drill bits have a way of snapping off if not drilled correctly and once you snap one off it the hole your done and so is your case.
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28A
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Ruining original Seikos since 2015.
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Post by 28A on Oct 2, 2015 4:05:11 GMT -8
I agree that drilling stainless steel with a 1.3mm drill bit isn't the most thrilling thing i've ever heard, however i think if it's got a bit of cutting fluid on it and you have the case nice and flat.. and take it a little at a time i'm sure it can be done relatively easily. Adrian should send me one as a test dummy, i'd be glad to give it a go and report my findings |
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Post by C4L18R3 on Oct 2, 2015 8:05:53 GMT -8
...and sorry for the dumb question:
Does the original 6309-7040 have a 'spring' thing under the click ball or is it just the ball? I ask because mine jumped off the table... never to be seen...
Thanks! There is a small spring! Not a dumb question. There's a spring under that?! Sheesh! So that means I would not only need the click balls, I also have to get this spring :-/ I feel so helpless LOL. I'd be fine with this solution of yours, not sure how I can go about drilling the 1.3mm hole as I don't have equipment for it... |
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GuyJ
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Whitley Bay, UK
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Post by GuyJ on Oct 2, 2015 8:48:27 GMT -8
I have a 6105 with Duncan that has a sunken click ball. We discussed what could happen and he mentioned that he tried all manner of things to retrieve them on previous occasions.
Drilling the case was my recommendation but it soon became apparent that it could go very wrong. I suppose that this is easier if there is no ball to get in the way and make the drill bit slip.
I wondered if it could be sucked out using a makeshift vacuum attachment and getting the ball out that way..
Anyway, I digress, interesting idea here.
So it's simply to have a larger click ball function for less wear?
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longbike
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Post by longbike on Oct 2, 2015 9:56:31 GMT -8
Aloha This is a good idea for those that have no way to do it. I was and still am a Machinist by trade and see no problem in doing this except it has to be done right. Stainless Steel is very touchy to work with and the drilling has to be done right or problems will come like mentioned.
The Stock Click Ball is in a Sleeve then the ball placed into it then the top Sleeve edges are Crimped over to set (lock), it tight. When drilling Stainless Steel one has to be very careful to do it very slowly and not at to much of a high speed of the drill press used. Once you get it started very slowly it will do the job. Rushing it will cause the Drill Bit to Break. If the ball is deep in the hole and stuck there and you can get a ... ( Tool called a .... Reamer ) into it, it might do the job in cleaning out the rust and let loose the Ball and spring then it will be easier to do this.
Note : Adrians Device for re-placement is Great and Unique also : As it shows that ..... ( Ingenuity, Time and Development went into it for use in the damaged watch case.) It shows .... Technology for its purpose and would be a very good part needed for those needing a good fix. Note: On the other hand not Going against or Knocking this Device or Re-placement Part : ( At least some one has come up with a new idea to get this fix done and still be useful to many. ) It would be all according to the Person that wants to do this. If Originality is a major factor for the watch then ( Drilling the old one out would have to be done and still remain ......Original.) Then this would have to be done by ..... (Some one with the Skills to do it properly with no problems for it. )
Caution To Be Seen : If the ball is Rotted and the Spring also it might be harder to do because the Drilled Particles (The Metal chips ) are what will jam the drill bit and cause it to break. When doing this a Magnet could be used to catch up the ...... ( Loose Chips from Drilling ) and it helps a lot also. The Drill Bit will be free to do its job better with not Chips to jam it as you drill.
Remember The Drill Bit is (Carbide / Tungsten, and Hard) and made for Drilling, but the Person doing it is what matters the most and how it is done. Note: Major Problem with doing this: ( Using Loc-Tite in the hole then drilling might freeze the Ball tight to be drilled.) If the ball decides to spin while drilling then a problem will be there and it will happen...... ( The Drill Bit will Snap.) Aloha Louis |
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tritto
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Post by tritto on Oct 2, 2015 15:23:14 GMT -8
I have a 6105 with Duncan that has a sunken click ball. We discussed what could happen and he mentioned that he tried all manner of things to retrieve them on previous occasions. Drilling the case was my recommendation but it soon became apparent that it could go very wrong. I suppose that this is easier if there is no ball to get in the way and make the drill bit slip. I wondered if it could be sucked out using a makeshift vacuum attachment and getting the ball out that way.. Anyway, I digress, interesting idea here. So it's simply to have a larger click ball function for less wear? What about pulling the ball out with a powerful magnet? You'd have to have a demagnetiser handy of course. |
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Great idea, but a drop-in swap would be much more feasible for the DIY-er. Otherwise, a ball from a medium Bic pen and a chopped-off springbar spring will do just fine!
