circular brushed effect

[l10n3l]

Hello WS,


I wanted to share with you a very basic technic that I found to improve the circular brushed pattern on the top of casing.
It is very basic and still require manual skills, but at least it gave me good results after some trials and errors.
My best setup so far is :
- common sponge with a green abrasive side
- 150 grit paper with fabric back (for velcro fixation)
- clamps to hold the casing



Basically the top surface of the casing is often a very flat cone.
So I made a cone shape with the grit paper (cut, overlay, adhesive tape), to fit as much as possible the casing top surface cone angle
:

I made a hole in the middle of the cone and in the sponge as well, that match the diameter of the rim where the bezel is set tight fit
The idea is that during the rotation, the holes remains centered onto the casing, thus making the scratches concentric
The clamp was necessary to apply enough pressure and a good torque, helping to better control the center of rotation position
The sponge makes the pressure even.
I turn in only one direction, applying quite much pressure.

My first attempt was my first 6106-7440 :
- I used directly the green side of the sponge at that time (already with the center hole) but the effect is closer to satiny than brushed
and the sponge is too soft to keep the center in right position
- I began holding the casing by hand but it gave a very poor control, as you need to press hard and keep the center of rotation in position at the same time
(sorry for the poor quality of the picture)


Second attempt, 2nd 6106-7440 :
- change to grit paper lying on the yellow side of the sponge : to easy to tear and fold; cannot apply pressure properly
- change to grit paper with fabric liner : stiffer, better
- tried with a wet sponge : too soft, cannot apply pressure properly
The best result I got so far.


Last, 7019-7000 :
The rim diameter on the casing doen't match the hole diameter of my setup.
As a result the concenticity is not so good. Yet still acceptable in my standard, for a cheap watch.


So next steps will probably be :
- find or make some kind of chuck to better hold the casing and eventually attach it to a drilling machine
- make a fixture with an actual pivot, that can guide the chuck in rotation
- make jigs specifically adapted to to each casing cone angles and rim diameters

That's it. not much but I hope it can help someone.

[small]

Nice work trying to bring back some of the texture. I have read threads on here about case restoration and how some have worked to perfect it. Mike B has done quite a few threads with this in mind, although I don't recall anything circular. Most all of my watches are beaters, and adding back a finish seems like adding lipstick on a pig.  

[l10n3l]

Feb 5, 2020 4:37:32 GMT -8 small said:

Nice work trying to bring back some of the texture. I have read threads on here about case restoration and how some have worked to perfect it. Mike B has done quite a few threads with this in mind, although I don't recall anything circular. Most all of my watches are beaters, and adding back a finish seems like adding lipstick on a pig.  

Thank you. Mike B is at another level... but he inspires me for sure and gives a good target to reach.
And even a pig may deserve a little beauty treatment sometimes 

[suntzu]

Wow, really fantastic!

Amazing what you can do by hand with some simple tools and a lot of ingenuity! That gives me some confidence to try it out on an old case.

[l10n3l]

Feb 6, 2020 7:02:46 GMT -8 suntzu said:

Wow, really fantastic!

Amazing what you can do by hand with some simple tools and a lot of ingenuity! That gives me some confidence to try it out on an old case.

Thanks a lot. You're right, it's better to practise a little. And I would not try on higher range watches, at least without an upgraded setup.

[stphsatya]

good diy idea
Did freehand sometimes ago, doesnt comeout as nice

[longbike]

Aloha,

I do mine some times with a small motor hooked up to a over head stand I made at ....Various Speed
and it works also.
___________________

   Most of the time I do it .... All Free Handed...because I do not like removing .... Total Originality Completely
and still have ... The Original Markings on it. 
I try to stick to what the .... Original Model Case looks like without .... Extensive Working of it.
Then I very carefully find a way to get the .... Case Effects with different methods of use in ...... Work Materials.
  I tried and used .... The Sponge Effects with different .... Sanding Material but it turned out to smooth so I do
it differently now and get the effects done much better on each different case.
It depends on how .... The Case Model Effect is I would say, thick lines or fine lines to get accomplished.
NOTE :
   Getting the Effect on a .... Circular Round case is quite easy, ....BUT... On a ....Oblong or Off Shape Case then it is
a challenge to find the way for it. 
It depends on just what ... Tools, Sanding Materials, Machines, Compounds and so on that one chooses to use.











_____________________________________________________

Another Model :





__________________________________________

Get the ..... Ugly and Bad away then get the ..... Originality Back with different Workings.
This case was quite Bad So Had to Tune It Up again to look Original. I do not like taking to
much material off, but just enough to it.


Aloha
Louis





 

[fergfour]

I like that sponge technique, the results are great. I often brush my watches as some of them are just plain too polished/shiny for my taste. I've mainly used the manual technique with either a scotchbrite type material, or I have a titanium scouring pad too, or various grades of sandpaper. Sometimes it's difficult to get around the crown area and in the parts wher teh case meets the lugs etc, so sometimes I fold a piece of sandpaper to get in those spots.

[HiBeat]

Oct 2, 2020 4:06:36 GMT -8 fergfour said:

I like that sponge technique, the results are great. I often brush my watches as some of them are just plain too polished/shiny for my taste. I've mainly used the manual technique with either a scotchbrite type material, or I have a titanium scouring pad too, or various grades of sandpaper. Sometimes it's difficult to get around the crown area and in the parts wher teh case meets the lugs etc, so sometimes I fold a piece of sandpaper to get in those spots.

Whatever works but I always do a complete case disassembly before attempting any sort of case refinish.

[longbike]

Oct 2, 2020 19:13:52 GMT -8 HiBeat said:

Oct 2, 2020 4:06:36 GMT -8 fergfour said:

I like that sponge technique, the results are great. I often brush my watches as some of them are just plain too polished/shiny for my taste. I've mainly used the manual technique with either a scotchbrite type material, or I have a titanium scouring pad too, or various grades of sandpaper. Sometimes it's difficult to get around the crown area and in the parts wher teh case meets the lugs etc, so sometimes I fold a piece of sandpaper to get in those spots.

Whatever works but I always do a complete case disassembly before attempting any sort of case refinish.

                     I'll second that because if you want to do a thorough job on the watch the case is also of importance
           to fulfill good quality and performance.