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Post by kimball on Sept 26, 2020 21:07:30 GMT -8
Hostility ?? Just trying to fully understand what was going on. If you read my previous replies I was/am trying to assist. Sorry, the way I read the steps I put a condescending tone to it. Sorry if that wasn’t your intention. Also, being new to this forum I haven’t fully been paying attention to the names of each poster to understand the personalities behind them. Did I clear up your questions on the steps to get to this point on the watch?
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Post by kimball on Sept 26, 2020 21:11:37 GMT -8
Hostility ?? Just trying to fully understand what was going on. If you read my previous replies I was/am trying to assist. I just saw you were the one who posted the good pics and pointers to remove the crown and such. Truly I am sorry for misinterpretation your latest post.
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Fergus
Needs a Life!
Posts: 2,945
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Post by Fergus on Sept 26, 2020 21:20:16 GMT -8
OK but I would still have a new SK crystal installed while its apart.
Boley states Seiko 300T24ANS.
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Post by kimball on Sept 27, 2020 18:45:31 GMT -8
Whats the reasoning behind replacing the crystal that appears OK? do they develop stress fractures when removing them? Would this be caused by repeated remove and installs?
Whats the difference between: 300T24ANS and 300T24AN (w/o "s")? ebay and The Watch Site both have 300T24AN shown.
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Fergus
Needs a Life!
Posts: 2,945
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Post by Fergus on Sept 27, 2020 20:35:51 GMT -8
A new crystal ensures good sealing and surprising how it’s clarity compared to old lifts the dial. For the cost involved I always fit one. Sometimes you have to source OEM as in this case which can make it more expensive.
The last digit indicates the tension ring colour, S = silver, G = gold. If you know for certain the old crystal is OEM with silver tension ring and you can only find a new one with G you can swap the rings and visa versa. But you must be 100% certain they are like for like.
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