camrok
Needs a Life!
Posts: 2,418
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Post by camrok on Jan 6, 2017 22:03:18 GMT -8
Thats a hard question to answer and much depends on your budget. Unless you are willing to pay high money these days the good vintage Speedmasters are too expensive and its very difficult to find one which is genuine and good condition, I was lucky and did buy my vintage Speedmasters before the price went so crazy. That leaves you with the more modern Speedmaster in either standard form or one of the limited editions. If I was going to buy another 'standard' Speedmaster it would probably be an Apollo XI 863 model or 3592.50 1863, or maybe a broad arrow 3594.50 1861 A few of mine.... I see a few of your speedmasters have the Donuts Per Hr bezel on them. Aka pulsations. Cam
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Post by C4L18R3 on Jan 11, 2017 7:01:25 GMT -8
I just can't let this one go, it's a must have at this point. So here is the question, do I buy secondhand new, of go for something more toward vintage? Which model? If you ask me, I'll simplify it this way Tim. If you want a Speedmaster, get the model that represents the Moonwatch. That can be any of various versions of past and present Speedmaster Professionals with the solid caseback that says "The First Watch Worn on the Moon." For all intents and purposes the most practical buys imho would be these Earlier (not too old to be 'vintage' expensive) 3570.50 = Hesalite crystal front with solid caseback 3572.50 = Hesalite crystal front with sapphire caseback Later (newer, pricier, looks exactly as above) 3750.50 = Hesalite crystal front with solid caseback 3753.50 = 'Sapphire sandwich' (front and back) There have been many minute changes to the case, hands and movement over the years but I think what's important is you get a Moonwatch! Having said that I would go for a Hesalite version as it is as close as you can get to the original Moonwatch. Getting something made later would mean a bit pricier but at least you have a newer model. Earlier models (in reference to those above that I mentioned) will be better priced but it would also depend on condition. If you go earlier than those above expect to pay higher prices, the older, the more ridiculous it gets. I am in no way an expert but I have done some homework in my Omega Speedmaster journey. Enough not to get burned, but not nearly enough as to know the differences in all of the versions throughout the decades. I have posted mine before on bracelet, here it is on a NATO strap - I got hooked on Speedmasters after this one and finally got my grail (birthyear) watch sometime later, a Speedmaster Mark II with the Racing dial - And to add something different and dressier, I found a nice example of this one, a 3575.30 - At this point I'd really advise you to stick to the list above. If you can buy brand new, specially with the kit it comes now (NATO, silver coin thing, loupe, huge commemorative box) then all the better imho. Just remember that for a 'true' Moonwatch, you need the solid caseback, Hesalite, handwind and the Speedmaster Professional designation of course. Happy hunting and I hope you eventually get the one thats for you.
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tritto
WS Benefactor
Posts: 5,872
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Post by tritto on Jan 11, 2017 12:41:47 GMT -8
Some beautiful examples you have there Tristan
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Post by Groundhog66 on Jan 11, 2017 12:56:35 GMT -8
I just can't let this one go, it's a must have at this point. So here is the question, do I buy secondhand new, of go for something more toward vintage? Which model? If you ask me, I'll simplify it this way Tim. If you want a Speedmaster, get the model that represents the Moonwatch. That can be any of various versions of past and present Speedmaster Professionals with the solid caseback that says "The First Watch Worn on the Moon." For all intents and purposes the most practical buys imho would be these Earlier (not too old to be 'vintage' expensive) 3570.50 = Hesalite crystal front with solid caseback 3572.50 = Hesalite crystal front with sapphire caseback Later (newer, pricier, looks exactly as above) 3750.50 = Hesalite crystal front with solid caseback 3753.50 = 'Sapphire sandwich' (front and back) There have been many minute changes to the case, hands and movement over the years but I think what's important is you get a Moonwatch! Having said that I would go for a Hesalite version as it is as close as you can get to the original Moonwatch. Getting something made later would mean a bit pricier but at least you have a newer model. Earlier models (in reference to those above that I mentioned) will be better priced but it would also depend on condition. If you go earlier than those above expect to pay higher prices, the older, the more ridiculous it gets. I am in no way an expert but I have done some homework in my Omega Speedmaster journey. Enough not to get burned, but not nearly enough as to know the differences in all of the versions throughout the decades. I have posted mine before on bracelet, here it is on a NATO strap - I got hooked on Speedmasters after this one and finally got my grail (birthyear) watch sometime later, a Speedmaster Mark II with the Racing dial - And to add something different and dressier, I found a nice example of this one, a 3575.30 - At this point I'd really advise you to stick to the list above. If you can buy brand new, specially with the kit it comes now (NATO, silver coin thing, loupe, huge commemorative box) then all the better imho. Just remember that for a 'true' Moonwatch, you need the solid caseback, Hesalite, handwind and the Speedmaster Professional designation of course. Happy hunting and I hope you eventually get the one thats for you. Great info, thank you very much!
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Post by aaron643 on Jan 11, 2017 13:34:57 GMT -8
I didn't do a whole lot of research but I did research some and I think unless you have a specific model that speaks to you it seems that the 3570.50 (the newer the better) is the way to go...unless you can find a Mitsukoshi dial LOL.
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Post by Groundhog66 on Jan 11, 2017 15:06:58 GMT -8
Pretty informative Hodinkee video can be found HERE.
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Post by stuart on Jan 12, 2017 0:06:43 GMT -8
I've reserved one of these Limited Editions...... I have a significant Wedding Anniversary later this year so this would make a great gift from my wife
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Post by earthphase on Jan 12, 2017 8:24:30 GMT -8
Way too go Stuart.
I tried, and tried, and tried, and tried but was unsuccessful. I imagine I'll have an opportunity when they start to actually show up - as the no down payment aspect of the ordering system seemed really bonk to me.
One thing on that one that I really like that isn't really being talked about - the all brushed case is a rare bird on a Speedy Pro.
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eeki
Timekeeper
Posts: 510
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Post by eeki on Jan 12, 2017 10:52:17 GMT -8
I've reserved one of these Limited Editions...... I have a significant Wedding Anniversary later this year so this would make a great gift from my wife Congratulations! I tried to reserve one but ended up on the wait list. I'm not 100% sure if I'll follow through with the purchase if I have the chance to get one, as practically speaking it would mean selling the 105.012, but I was very much intrigued by the special edition. Some people seemed bothered by the lack of bracelet, but I think it looks great on leather. It would not look right on the modern moonwatch bracelets, that's for sure!
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Post by earthphase on Jan 12, 2017 12:29:19 GMT -8
wouldn't fit on the modern bracelet anyway.
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Post by stuart on Jan 12, 2017 20:08:58 GMT -8
I was lucky to be online at the right time and its the small features of this watch that really swayed my decision, the brushed case is certainly something new for Speedmaster. I have a few other Omegas which I dont wear so I'll probably be selling them to help fund this purchase. Pretty excited about the chance to own one - which is a first for me as many of the limited editions I havent liked.
I also think that once the watches start becoming available from Omega then they'll become available to buy as has happened with most of the other limited editions.
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Post by earthphase on Jan 13, 2017 7:17:52 GMT -8
I think you are right Stuart
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Post by Groundhog66 on Jan 28, 2020 13:15:31 GMT -8
Well, I'm back on my quest, this needs to happen.
Shame about all the broken links to pics in this thread.
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scubarob99
Moderator
Just bought a 6309-7049...this is the last one, I promise.
Posts: 3,702
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Post by scubarob99 on Jan 28, 2020 14:17:48 GMT -8
I've narrowed my search to 3570.50.00. Dimensions are right, ticks all the boxes. Would wear it on leather. Price is not too crazy on this model either.
Rob
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tritto
WS Benefactor
Posts: 5,872
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Post by tritto on Jan 28, 2020 17:25:18 GMT -8
Well, I'm back on my quest, this needs to happen. Shame about all the broken links to pics in this thread. Still dithering, Tim? 😆
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Post by Groundhog66 on Jan 28, 2020 19:23:05 GMT -8
Well, I'm back on my quest, this needs to happen. Shame about all the broken links to pics in this thread. Still dithering, Tim? 😆 For sure! Showed it to my wife again, she likes it, and I DO have a birthday coming up very soon. All I have to do at this point is be sure of the model number, and get the price dialed in.
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tritto
WS Benefactor
Posts: 5,872
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Post by tritto on Jan 28, 2020 21:59:34 GMT -8
So are you looking for a new one, fairly recent (since 1998 when they changed to superluminova), early 70s to 1998 (tritium but no-step dial), or step-dialled vintage? If you're after a newish superluminova model then I'd suggest just the standard modern Speedmaster as new and as good as you can afford/justify. To be honest, new with AD discount of 15-20% is probably the best option. Anything up to 5 years old isn't a great deal cheaper than that and will be coming up for a costly service anyway (if going to Omega for the service). If you're wanting an exhibition caseback then buy one here. They're very very good. www.customwatchconcepts.com/ If you're after a more vintage look, then they start to get expensive quickly. A 90s model with tritium might suit your tastes. There's really no benefit to going earlier until you hit the early 70s and step dials etc. There is an updated model with co-axial 3861 movement and possibly a more vintage dial look coming soon I believe, which may result in a sell off of newish used examples as everyone wants the upgraded movement. That could get you a better deal at an AD or second hand.
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Post by Groundhog66 on Jan 29, 2020 18:03:22 GMT -8
So are you looking for a new one, fairly recent (since 1998 when they changed to superluminova), early 70s to 1998 (tritium but no-step dial), or step-dialled vintage? If you're after a newish superluminova model then I'd suggest just the standard modern Speedmaster as new and as good as you can afford/justify. To be honest, new with AD discount of 15-20% is probably the best option. Anything up to 5 years old isn't a great deal cheaper than that and will be coming up for a costly service anyway (if going to Omega for the service). If you're wanting an exhibition caseback then buy one here. They're very very good. www.customwatchconcepts.com/ If you're after a more vintage look, then they start to get expensive quickly. A 90s model with tritium might suit your tastes. There's really no benefit to going earlier until you hit the early 70s and step dials etc. There is an updated model with co-axial 3861 movement and possibly a more vintage dial look coming soon I believe, which may result in a sell off of newish used examples as everyone wants the upgraded movement. That could get you a better deal at an AD or second hand. I always tend to lean toward vintage, but I do believe that will run out of my desired price range quickly. I'm guessing new, or recently purchased LNIB will be the way to go on this one, 3570.50?
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tritto
WS Benefactor
Posts: 5,872
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Post by tritto on Jan 29, 2020 18:08:32 GMT -8
So are you looking for a new one, fairly recent (since 1998 when they changed to superluminova), early 70s to 1998 (tritium but no-step dial), or step-dialled vintage? If you're after a newish superluminova model then I'd suggest just the standard modern Speedmaster as new and as good as you can afford/justify. To be honest, new with AD discount of 15-20% is probably the best option. Anything up to 5 years old isn't a great deal cheaper than that and will be coming up for a costly service anyway (if going to Omega for the service). If you're wanting an exhibition caseback then buy one here. They're very very good. www.customwatchconcepts.com/ If you're after a more vintage look, then they start to get expensive quickly. A 90s model with tritium might suit your tastes. There's really no benefit to going earlier until you hit the early 70s and step dials etc. There is an updated model with co-axial 3861 movement and possibly a more vintage dial look coming soon I believe, which may result in a sell off of newish used examples as everyone wants the upgraded movement. That could get you a better deal at an AD or second hand. I always tend to lean toward vintage, but I do believe that will run out of my desired price range quickly. I'm guessing new, or recently purchased LNIB will be the way to go on this one, 3570.50? Omega's naming convention has changed. If you go new I think you're looking for: 311.30.42.30.01.005. www.jomashop.com/omega-watch-311-30-42-30-01-005.html
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Post by Groundhog66 on Jan 29, 2020 18:12:38 GMT -8
I always tend to lean toward vintage, but I do believe that will run out of my desired price range quickly. I'm guessing new, or recently purchased LNIB will be the way to go on this one, 3570.50? Omega's naming convention has changed. If you go new I think you're looking for: 311.30.42.30.01.005. www.jomashop.com/omega-watch-311-30-42-30-01-005.htmlIs that a good price for new?
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