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Post by sundog on Oct 2, 2015 16:52:50 GMT -8
Seiko 6309/6306 diver case. Fat springbar Bracelet How does one remove the flipping spring bar? Area is too small for the dental floss trick or a spring bar remover.  |
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28A
WIS
Ruining original Seikos since 2015.
Posts: 1,030 
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Post by 28A on Oct 2, 2015 17:21:41 GMT -8
I too have wondered this even with my leather straps. I can't even remove them when the spring bar is all that's there.
My watchmaker refers to them as suicide bars because you have to cut them out.. however i have seen another watchmaker remove and install them so there must be a way.
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Adrian-VTA
Global Moderator
Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 5,327
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Post by Adrian-VTA on Oct 2, 2015 17:27:10 GMT -8
You can slide the tip of a hobby knife under that end and get them out. Or you push the tip of a screwdriver in to the exposed part of the shaft and just slide them aside. They're not too difficult but not as easy as a shouldered one.
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cobrajet25
Needs a Life!
"Underweared curmudgeon!"
Posts: 3,357
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Post by cobrajet25 on Oct 3, 2015 1:51:17 GMT -8
You can slide the tip of a hobby knife under that end and get them out. Or you push the tip of a screwdriver in to the exposed part of the shaft and just slide them aside. They're not too difficult but not as easy as a shouldered one. If you use a SHARP penknife, you don't even need to get it between the case lug and the end of the bar. The blade of the knife will dig into the bar a little, and a sharp twist will be enough to get it to disengage. Getting these out is much easier when there is a rubber dive strap on the watch because you can push down on the springbar while removing the bar and the strap has enough clearance to drop free once the bar disengages. But endpieces on bracelets are a bit more rigid, and require some more finesse. |
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GuyJ
Needs a Life!
Whitley Bay, UK
Posts: 2,862
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Post by GuyJ on Oct 3, 2015 3:49:52 GMT -8
I have these on mine... I had to take some wire cutters to another 6105 I had to remove them.
The ones on my proof one tho I think I'm stuck with. It's on a repro waffle which I can see having to be destroyed to be able to use some flanged bars so I can wear it on a perlon or nato..but I've resigned myself to giving up.
They are good, sturdy and won't let your watch disappear from your wrist barring a crack or tearing of a strap... But bloody hell they're hard to remove once on.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Oct 3, 2015 4:51:06 GMT -8
I had those on the 6309 I've just bought, they were a 'bar steward' to get off !! I did it eventually, and had a couple of fat shouldered spring bars from a jubilee bracelet, which are now on the watch, I know I am big on original but FFS, i can live with that, can't be doing with a 30 minute fight every time I want to change the strap !!!  I too have wondered this even with my leather straps. I can't even remove them when the spring bar is all that's there. My watchmaker refers to them as suicide bars because you have to cut them out.. however i have seen another watchmaker remove and install them so there must be a way. |
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Post by SpinDoctor on Oct 4, 2015 9:27:24 GMT -8
using the edge of a skinny pen knife works for me too, but whatever end link that is doesn't give you much room. I don't remember the stock endlink being that difficult. I did struggle with the end from one of the popular after market bracelets, even with a flanged spring bar.
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Post by Benchdweller on Oct 4, 2015 12:20:52 GMT -8
I use a standard Bergeon tool with small and large forks and rarely have problems getting them out. Just press the fork against the bar and turn it back and forth as if you are turning a key, eventually you feel the tool slip under the notch at the tip of the bar and you can remove it as normal. Bracelets can harder to remove as you need to use the fine tipped fork but I regularly swap between a bracelet and strap on my Seiko divers and never have any issues. Or you can buy some of these - www.ebay.com/itm/140847994508. |
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Post by C4L18R3 on Oct 4, 2015 22:46:57 GMT -8
Shoulderless fat spring bars are a pain specially with bracelets and more so with solid end links! On rubber or leather they are manageable but on bracelets... they drive me nuts! In fact I have a 6309 on Yobokies Anvil and to this day (has been with me 2 years now) I cannot for the life of me, replace the bracelet. The few times I've tried on some old SKXs with solid end links, I scratched the watches. Shoulderless fat bars should go the way of the Dodo bird  |
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Post by feca67 on Oct 5, 2015 3:17:18 GMT -8
Shoulderless fat spring bars are a pain specially with bracelets and more so with solid end links! On rubber or leather they are manageable but on bracelets... they drive me nuts! In fact I have a 6309 on Yobokies Anvil and to this day (has been with me 2 years now) I cannot for the life of me, replace the bracelet. The few times I've tried on some old SKXs with solid end links, I scratched the watches. Shoulderless fat bars should go the way of the Dodo bird NO! Don't ban them! Shoulderless fat springbars are great for watches like the 62MAS that have lugs drilled with 'generous' sized holes. |
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Post by C4L18R3 on Oct 5, 2015 4:26:30 GMT -8
Shoulderless fat spring bars are a pain specially with bracelets and more so with solid end links! On rubber or leather they are manageable but on bracelets... they drive me nuts! In fact I have a 6309 on Yobokies Anvil and to this day (has been with me 2 years now) I cannot for the life of me, replace the bracelet. The few times I've tried on some old SKXs with solid end links, I scratched the watches. Shoulderless fat bars should go the way of the Dodo bird NO! Don't ban them! Shoulderless fat springbars are great for watches like the 62MAS that have lugs drilled with 'generous' sized holes. LOL Yes you do have a point there. My SUN019 has them and strap changes are a breeze. But on everything else (without drilled lug holes) you would need a lot of patience and a whole lot of dexterity. |
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