Difference between 6105 and 6309/7548 Bezel INSERT?

[28A]

Just wondering if there is much of a difference between these inserts? Looking at buying a 6105-8110 and this is what it looks like. We have a few spare original dials in far better shape and a mint hour and seconds hand. Possibly be able to find a minute hand.

Could leave the bezel as is but wondering if there is any differences and how hard it'd be to find another insert or if a later one is usable?

[28A]

I suppose the insert is pretty cool but I'm just curious here..

[GuyJ]

I believe you can use the 7002 and the 7s26. The 6309-7040 inserts are slanted so for me I don't think they would work but I'm not sure. They will just dip towards the crystal somewhat and it might look a little strange.

I found a chart for the sizes and what fits what.

I had a long conversation with Duncan about these inserts and it's worth bearing in mind that they were never sold separately, so be careful if you see one on eBay that pretends to be NOS and had a 'case ring' packet with it.

Typically the AM parts just look bad to me. The yobokies ones I think are the best AM parts to get your 6105 back to looking new, however if I were you I would leave that insert as is, I think it looks great.

s720.photobucket.com/user/borlenghi/media/Bezel_Inserts_01-1.jpg.html

That's the link that shows the size and what could fit.

I had a less worn watch that I sent off to get restored and if I had yours I'd probably do the same thing. All I simply wanted to do was to restore the hands to match the dial lume/or lume the hands and dial completely. I didn't want to touch the bezel/insert and replace it.



And yes just to be clear I have seen one or maybe two NOS bezel inserts and Clayton had them. I wanted one but he didn't have it available anymore. There was some serious money being asked. I've seen a couple on ebay complete with bezel that actually weren't too bad and didn't fetch a huge amount, although the nicer of the two did somewhat... But this was a rare occurrence. I'm pretty sure I recognised the username from here I think it was dynamohumm? Not sure.

Anyway hope that helps somewhat.

Just realised you mentioned you have a better dial and hands, well I'd see what it looks like with a restored lume pip. If you think it's completely out of balance with the overall look then the find a replacement. Oh and I think I remember being told that the 6105 insert is unique in its width and size although with some modifications to a different model's insert it can work..

[28A]

Thanks for the reply Bodo, great info there.

I have heard also that they MIGHT be different sizes. I think if i pick this up i'll probably leave the bezel insert as is but i was curious if there were infact any differences. I didn't even consider that they aren't slanted like the 6309 or 7548. 

The dial and hands this watchmaker has are completely original however the lume is just such a nicer cream.. these look a little too haggard for my liking. As they are original swapping them over isn't going to change value, or authenticity of the watch. I'll stick with a resist dial though i think as there is a proof dial there also but i think that'd be incorrect for this watch.

This one dates to February of 1972.. so what's the last year / date for the proof dials? I tried looking for that a while ago and couldn't find any conclusive answer.

[GuyJ]

1970 I believe. Yes keep resist dial to match what will likely be a resist case back. I don't think I've seen any proof dials on watches after late 1970 and I believe the resist dial versions of the 8000 series are around the end of 1970. So yes the proof one I have I think literally had a run of a few months in 1970.

I remember when I posted a pic of my proof and I got the response to say 'very nice, but now show us the case back!'.

It felt good show that it did indeed say proof there, too.

So yes use a dial in keeping with the watch I'd say...

Be interested to see what you end up with here!

I looked into this just quickly and I'm not sure I can find out exactly when the 6105 8110 came into being. I do see reports that resist version 6105-8000s have been known to have a serial number up to 72. I guess the 8110/9 models started in 70 and interspersed with production of the 8000 series I don't think there is any real consistent order.

For example there are resist resist 8000s with a production date of Feb 1970. And then you have a proof proof one like mine with a production date of May 70....

[28A]

Ah i see. I saw the proof dial and while i didn't say anything i was like   knowing how rare they are. I doubt he'll sell me a dial though.. Unless i can manage to score the empty 6105-8110 case he has also but that is missing a movement, bezel and case back. So i don't know if it's worth it. He'll probably want to keep one for himself too.

I think my best option is to get the one above, leave the bezel as is and see about changing the dial and hands to a nicer set and keep it.

[GuyJ]

Well a proof dial is appealing, however maybe you don't need a new dial?:

thewatchbloke.co.uk/2015/04/14/seiko-6105-8110-2/

[28A]

If i could snag both empty case and proof dial (which is quite nice) and the other complete one with a better hand set and dial i'd be all over it. I might even try it.

In any case, i have seen a lot of 6105's with relumes and they don't take my fancy at all. One of the few that i don't like the look of. I'd rather an original nice condition cream dial, which i think we have two or three of to choose from (or 2 without the proof).

[GuyJ]

Go for it, that sounds good!
I agree with you, too. But I think Duncan did an amazing job with that one.

[28A]

No doubting i've seen some really great relumes and i've even considered getting my new 7548 SQ dial redone with a blue lume but a 6105 i'd rather have a cream original dial i think.

I guess i'll keep you guys in the loop! He offered it to me for "about 5 - 6 hundred" Aus bucks.. but when i rung yesterday he said he'd have a think over the weekend. He said it'll be under what they go for on ebay and stuff so i don't know if he'll crank the price up to the 7 - 8 hundred or not. I really hope not as it's pushing what i've got saved up for one.. I'd rather get it less and have some leftover to spend on my TST 7548 project.