Well, I got a bit different view than most ...
I've collected Japanese for a while now, started with the chronograph & diver thing, added Bellmatic too, but switched to the classic dress watches & hi-end WP/sports items later.
Here's what I would say about your question:
Sure, do the Pogue & 6309 diver if you wish ... but I'd get the "harder to find" and more unusual diver & chrono models instead! I'd definitely put in a 701x or a few into that list, like a
7018 Timesonar
<mine!!
... and something like a
7017-6050 which has the outer tach bezel & slide-rule chiapter under the glass.
I'd also go with a 23j version of 6138 (like
6138-800x)
< mine!
... and a
6138-7000 Slide-rule for that portion of the collection.
For high-end vintage dress, I would say at least one of the following:
for late '60s to '70 era:
5106
Presmatic or Seikomatic-P (the JDM name)
5146 Presmatic hi-beat (only made for about a year!! Get the30j variant if you can find a nice one, all correct.)
< mine!
For '50s
either a higher jeweled variant of
Super, or a 19j or 21j variant of
Marvel< shots of mine!
shown above is an early type with "antishock" system which preceeded Diashock.
then go for an
early production 1st Generation (Marvel base)
Lord Marvel with the
engraved dial for this, you could substitute the later 5740A, Crown Special, or Cronos Special, but won't get that early type movement or the engraved dial text. All are 23j hand-winds though!
< mine too!
.... but if you can afford it (and find it) substitute an early production 3180 GS with the engraved dial!!
But, if that is "unobtainium" for you, do what I did & get it's successor, the cal. 430
For '60s, I'd recomment a 1st Generation (un-numbered calibre) King Seiko (non-hacking):
or a Goldfeather (ultra-slim hand-wind w/ center second). But, I would suggest one of the more unusual models, the 609000:
< mine!!
I say it is a "Danish Modern" type design rather than the more "classic" style of 'feather ... and it has a bit "chunkier" profile than those classicly styled models like 15005 or 15008.
< mine!
And, since we recently talked about it, a 4420 ... especially the
4420B Grand Seiko implementation of the movement series
And as someone said, get a 36Kbph model in there.
I'd go for a 45 model from Daini in addition to the 5740C Lord Marvel, also see if you can get a
615x GS Special,
or if you can afford it, either a 61 or 45 family
VFA {Very Fine Adjusted}
For Seikomatic ("Dater" types) hi-end:
6216 39j - any model you can find! In my experience they have been harder to find (esp. in very nice condition) than a corresponding 6246 GS/Chronometer
< mine!!
Cal. 395 (39j) specifically in the
J13.083 model which is in Gold Cap case ... it is considered by some to be Seiko's "trial piece" for an Automatic Grand Seiko... and Seiko's 1st "luxury automatic"
If you can't get either of the above, try for any model of the cal.
6218 35j which preceeded the 6216. Below is a solid gold example:
and in stainless too;
< MINE!!
I would also say that for
Divers,
go for one of the real classics. Go for a
6215 (analogous to a 6245 Grand Seiko automatic Date-only w/ 35j)
... instead of 6217, if you can afford one or even find one! If you can't get one of those, get the
1st Generation of 6159 (300M in the more conventional case style)
... but DON'T get it near sea-water, there was a water intrusion issue @ depth ... that led to the introduction of the 6159 600M "hockey puck" after a complaint from a professional diver unhappy with some aspects of the 300M.
the one above is mine. I also nearly had a 6159 300M as well, but had to give it up while under "reconstruction" from various parts lots as the watchmaker was really dragging his feet & I was moving overseas ... too bad
Instead of a 6309, get a 6105!!
< MINE!!
OK, will post for now & try to add pictures later.... UPDATE1: pics added, more later!! UPDATE2 and further: adding more models and pics for ones listed.